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Home / Rentals / Saw Rentals

Saw Rentals

Rent saws from TRULAND at Wauseon, OH and Angola, IN. Concrete, cutoff and demolition saws for cutting concrete, asphalt, block, pipe and metal.

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Angola, INArchbold, OHBluffton, INColdwater, OHEdgerton, OHFlora, INFort Wayne, INFrankfort, INHuntington, INLafayette, INLogansport, INNapoleon, OHSwayzee, INVan Wert, OHWabash, INWauseon, OHWoodburn, IN

The short answer

It depends on the concrete and its age. Green concrete, cured concrete, asphalt, block and stone all take different blades, and a blade used outside its intended material cuts poorly, wears out fast and can be dangerous. Tell us the material and the thickness when you book. Also confirm depth of cut, which is always less than the blade radius because of the arbor and guard, so a six inch slab needs a saw that genuinely reaches through it.

What saw rentals cover

The cutting jobs that a shop saw cannot handle. Cutting control joints in fresh concrete. Cutting cured slabs, sidewalks and asphalt for repairs, trenches and utility work. Cutting openings in block and masonry walls. Cutting pipe, rebar, steel and posts. Demolition cuts where you need to separate material rather than break it.

These are jobs where the right saw and the right blade make the difference between an afternoon and a lost week, and where the wrong pairing damages the material, the blade or both.

Matching blade to material

The blade decides the outcome more than the saw does. Blades are built for specific materials, and using one outside its intended material cuts slowly, wears out fast and can be genuinely dangerous. Green concrete, cured concrete, asphalt, block, brick, stone, ductile pipe and steel all call for different blades.

Depth of cut is set by blade diameter and machine, and it is always less than the blade radius because of the arbor and guard. If you have a six inch slab, confirm the saw actually reaches through it. Cutting halfway and finishing by hand is a much bigger job than most people expect.

Tell us the material, the thickness and whether the cut has to be through or partial. Bring a sample or a photo if you are unsure what you are cutting into, particularly on older concrete or unknown walls.

Wet cutting and dust

Wet cutting cools the blade, extends its life, cuts faster in most masonry and, most importantly, controls the silica dust that dry cutting throws into the air. If water is practical for your cut, use it, and plan for where the slurry goes because it stains and it has to be cleaned up before it sets.

Where water is not practical, use a saw with dust collection and wear proper respiratory protection. Dry cutting concrete or masonry without dust control is one of the most damaging exposures on any job site and the harm accumulates permanently over a career.

Safety and technique

Kickback is the main hazard on handheld cutoff and demo saws. It happens when the upper front quadrant of the blade contacts material, and it throws the saw back at the operator fast. Keep that part of the blade out of the cut, hold the saw firmly with both hands, and stand so you are not directly in line with it.

Cut straight. Twisting or prying a blade in the kerf binds it, and a bound blade either kicks or shatters. Let the saw cut at its own pace rather than forcing it, since forcing generates heat and loads the blade.

Before cutting into any slab or wall, know what is inside it. Post-tension cables, rebar, conduit, water lines, gas lines and radiant heat tubing all live inside concrete, and cutting one is dangerous and expensive. Locate before you cut, not after.

Wear eye and hearing protection, gloves, and long sleeves. Sparks and chips carry a long way.

Who rents saws

Concrete and utility contractors, plumbers and electricians cutting for penetrations, masons, demolition crews, farms cutting pads and pipe, and property owners doing a repair or an opening.

Available at Wauseon, 419-335-7368, and Angola, 260-665-5820.

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Questions

Frequently asked

What blade do I need to cut concrete?

It depends on the concrete and its age. Green concrete, cured concrete, asphalt, block and stone all take different blades, and a blade used outside its intended material cuts poorly, wears out fast and can be dangerous. Tell us the material and the thickness when you book. Also confirm depth of cut, which is always less than the blade radius because of the arbor and guard, so a six inch slab needs a saw that genuinely reaches through it.

Should I wet cut or dry cut?

Wet cut whenever water is practical. It cools the blade, extends blade life, cuts faster in most masonry and controls silica dust, which is the real hazard. Plan for where the slurry goes, because it stains and needs cleaning before it sets. If water is not practical, use a saw with dust collection and wear proper respiratory protection. Dry cutting concrete without dust control causes permanent lung damage over time.

What causes kickback on a cutoff saw?

Contact between the material and the upper front quadrant of the blade, which throws the saw back toward the operator very quickly. Keep that section of the blade out of the cut, hold the saw firmly with both hands, and position yourself out of the direct line of travel. Binding causes the same result, so cut straight, do not twist or pry the blade in the kerf, and let the saw work at its own pace rather than forcing it.

How do I know what is inside a slab before I cut it?

Find out before the blade goes in, not after. Concrete routinely contains rebar, post-tension cables, electrical conduit, water lines, gas lines and radiant heat tubing, and cutting any of them is dangerous and expensive. Check drawings if they exist, ask whoever built it, and use scanning or locating services on anything structural or unknown. If you are unsure what you are cutting into, call us and describe it. Wauseon 419-335-7368, Angola 260-665-5820.

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